Date: August 3rd, 2016
Distance: Rest day

I spent all day working on stuff. Organizing pictures, planning gear and routes, figuring out food for the next six months, trying to get permits for things. All part of the fun of traveling for this long.



-Dravis

Date: August 2nd, 2016
Distance: Rest day

I had planned on crossing the border bright and early today, but yeah, that didn't happen. I was totally exhausted from the day before and couldn't even get up until around noon. After that I did a little work. I wanted to get some stuff on my blog ready to go. I'm not sure what the internet will be like in Mongolia, so I want to make sure I have the last month of blog entries off to my editor (aka, my Sister) for posting before I head out there. If it takes a few weeks before I get a wifi signal I don't want people to worry.



-Dravis

Date: August 1st, 2016
Distance: 124 Kilometers
Song of the Day: Neon Never Changes - The Lonely Forest

Today started out darker than the day before. I was hoping the clouds would have cleared off overnight but they had not. The wind had switched, however, and I spent the morning getting battered by it. Grinding away for hours and seeing how little you have traveled is very demoralizing. This would be a good time to look out at the landscape and just try to enjoy the scenery. I had left the great canyons and mountains of the day before and was getting into flatter and drier land. The trees were thinning out, and the mountains disappeared to be replaced by smaller and smaller hills. I was left to roll up and down low, barren hills. I was quite happy when I noticed at the top of one of them I wasn't struggling with the wind anymore. It had finally died out late in the afternoon.

The wind did leave the clouds behind. I stopped for a quick bite in Kosh-Agach and by the time I left the town it was raining. Not the quick and torrential storms from the farmlands around Barnaul, or the long drenching rains of the mountains. Here it was just a light rain that wouldn't stop. The whole area was grey and gloomy. The road was dead straight and all around me were flat grasslands. My course was lined with a row of power poles stretching off into the mists. Sometimes I could see the shadow of a hill to my left or right. There were also a few stones or a ruined farmhouse now and again. With the rain clouds close in around me, the place just felt empty. There are few times that I have felt more alone.



-Dravis

Date: July 31st, 2016
Distance: 120 Kilometers
Song of the Day: Cowboy Song - Thin Lizzy

I had a wonderful morning with my Russian friends here. They even had warm porridge waiting for me for breakfast, which was a bit more like grits than oatmeal. Good stuff. The group was going to take off for the day and ride some nice dirt trails around a mountain. They invited me to join them, but I really should be on the road. There are a lot of kilometers between me and the border with Mongolia.

I got to start the day by crossing the old Inya bridge. Now that will wake you up. It's a suspension bridge where the bridge deck and beams are made from wood. This wouldn't be particularly scary, except that the structure hasn't been properly maintained, so much of that wood was rotten. Many of the planks have been hastily nailed over holes. In a number of places the cross-members are too rotten to even hold nails. Even the trusses that support the structure are clearly falling apart. The scariest part are the two giant burn holes on the south end of the bridge, gaps big enough to swallow the bike and me together. Looking down, all you can see is burnt lumber that is supposed to keep you from falling through and splashing into the Katun river 40 feet below. In reality the holes weren't that hard to avoid, and the bridge wasn't likely to collapse that day. It's still used to herd animals across the river. If it can take a cow, I am pretty sure I am going to be fine. Still, it was a bit nerve-wracking. If I can find time I will try and publish the video of it.

Edit: Here is the video. I hope you guys enjoy it.

From there on the day was much less exciting, just me moving slowly up the river valley. I really felt sluggish. The wind, for once, wasn't a factor. I just didn't seem to be able to get my legs moving. The whole day I felt like I was out of energy, but it didn't matter that much. The day was sunny and warm. The river gorge along the Katun was quite spectacular. It then merged with the Chuya river in a great confluence of muddy water. There were green tree-covered hills punctuated with sheer granite cliffs. Waterfalls and streams ran down into the silted river. Where they met, the clear water from the creek and the opaque water from the river seemed to be held apart almost as if by magic.

Each bend in the river would bring forth some new vista to drink in. The sun was out. Beautiful clouds hung overhead, like decorations for the blue sky. I was passing by sheer cliffs one minute, the next I would be riding through a forest. Then it would be followed by pastures, or a small village. I even passed some low swampy land full of tall grass and small ponds. The whole time, the Chuya river seemed to flow lazily through the valley. The narrow gap I was riding through had been cut by that ribbon of water. It was one of the most gorgeous and peaceful places I have been through. The whole afternoon felt like I was riding through a Bob Ross painting.

I hate to admit that it wasn't until late in the day that I realized why I had been going so slowly. The Chuya river was flowing the opposite way. I had been riding slightly uphill all day. Never enough that I would really notice, but just enough that I never felt like I was making any progress. By the time I realized it, I had left the gorge and was heading into more open country. The wind picked up and for once was pushing me along. The rocky cliffs disappeared and were replaced by rolling hills. They were mostly bare, with just a sprinkling of trees. In the distance I could see snow-capped peaks. It didn't feel like it, but I must have gained quite a bit of elevation.

I thought of making a few extra kilometers, but the opportunity for camping was too good. I found a track that lead off the main road and into the grassy hills where there was a wonderful little spot to set up camp. It was tucked into a little grove of trees with a great view of the white-topped mountains ahead of me. I cooked dinner as the sun set and the stars came out. In all, it has been quite an amazing day. Not all days are going to be this nice, so you might as well enjoy them when you can.

-Dravis

Date: July 30th, 2016
Distance: 71 Kilometers
Song of the Day: Smiley Faces - Gnarls Barkley

The road from Onguday was, thankfully, downhill for the first 20 kilometers. The weather hadn't improved much. It would threaten to be sunny for a minute, then cloud over again. At least it was keeping me cool. I also met a Ukrainian cyclist, which was quite fun. He had just been through Mongolia, so I had a number of questions. I also, as always, gave him the best advice I could about the road ahead.

The big challenge for the day was climbing over the Chike-Taman pass, though I must admit it wasn't that hard. Only a few switchbacks as I crept up the hillside. It finally started raining a little as I reached the top. That made the descent a little more scary, but the views were excellent, if made somewhat gloomy by the weather.

The rest of the day wasn't nearly as challenging, but it was still a lot of fun. The rain let up and it was almost sunny a few times. I was riding through a narrow gorge. Nothing that you guys haven't read about before, but still very nice.

I took a break to have some lunch when I was discovered by a group of other cyclists. It was a group of about 20 people who were on a tour of their own. They were lucky enough to have all their gear being carried by a van, though. I was invited to join them, which seemed like quite a nice idea. I rode along with the group for about 20 kilometers to the town of Inya. The leaders of the pack had stopped for some ice cream while waiting for the tail end. The tour group was going to camp just down the road and they asked me to come along. I almost said no, because I really wanted to get a lot of miles in. Fortunately I didn't listen to that voice that wanted me to push on. How often do I get to camp with a bunch of cool cyclists in Russia?

The evening was a lot of fun. We made camp overlooking the river and a super creepy bridge. I helped out where I could, gathering firewood and making a few places for people to sit around the fire. The Russian folks made stew in a big pot over the fire. We told stories, and I tried to keep up. I did the best I could with my Russian, but it still isn't that good. One of the guys had a guitar and they spent some time playing great music that I didn't understand at all. They tell me one of the songs was about a fish that had lost its pants. One of the girls even brought out a few bags of marshmallows. It felt so much like the bike camping trips I do with my friends back home. The whole night was truly fantastic. Thanks to all of the people there.



-Dravis

Date: July 29th, 2016
Distance: 126 Kilometers
Song of the Day: I'll Take the Rain - REM

Today was cloudy when I woke up, though the rain had stopped. Mists and clouds hung over the hills around me. It was beautiful, but not as reassuring as a sunny day. The area was full of little villages. Not the tourist villages from the day before, these were just little farming towns. Nothing special or exciting about them. Not being exciting was sort of the theme of the day. The road climbed steadily, but not steeply. The green hills and grey sky made a limited color palette. Even the mountain pass wasn't much to be interested in. There were no switchbacks or narrow gaps in the mountains to negotiate, it was just a long slow grind to the top. By the time I got there it was raining. Even the view from the top wasn't inspiring, just ground sloping the other way.

At least I was making much better time on the downhill side. I was able to roll into Onguday and find a place to sleep well before dark. I will take what I can.



-Dravis

Date: July 28th, 2016
Distance: 166 Kilometers
Song of the Day: Summerland - Everclear

I got up early, as Dmitri had to work. I said goodbye to him. Thanks for everything, man. Good luck in St. Petersburg.

Today was the day I finally left the boring, flat farm lands I have been traveling through for the last week or so. Of course, it did take a hundred kilometers to actually see the mountains. My first task was to get out of Biysk, though. Heading east, that required crossing the Ob River again. The bridge was one of the more wild structures I have used, really just a bunch of barges lashed together. I think there was a toll for it as well, but I am on a bike. I zipped past the line of cars and rode right across the bridge. The rest of the morning wasn't nearly as exciting.

It wasn't until I passed Gorno-Altaysk that things actually got visually interesting again. The land didn't get that much steeper, but the fields were replaced with forests. The rolling hills morphed into steeper wooded hillsides. Instead of cutting across the landscape, the road began to follow the Katun river. I wasn't alone out here, either, since this area is a tourist destination. Each little village has its own hotels, souvenir shops, and rafting companies. River rafting is apparently quite popular. It seemed like a cold and cloudy day to be out on the water, but there were tons of rubber boats going by filled with people. This is also a popular place for mountain bikes. The area has this almost theme park feel to it. Like getting back to nature, only turned into big business.

I found a good place to set up camp for the night. It was away from the road, and near the river. My own little place, not exactly in the wilderness, but close enough. I got my tent up just in time too. It started raining right after I got everything inside and didn't let up. There is something I find comforting about going to sleep all warm and cozy while raindrops patter against the tent.



-Dravis

Date: July 27th, 2016
Distance: 173 Kilometers
Song of the Day: Where It's At - Beck

I left Barnaul this morning. Thanks to Michael and Maryana. You guys are awesome.

The road leading from Barnaul was not awesome. It wasn't bad, really, just super boring. A few wheat fields, a few sections of forest, some grasslands. Nothing worth talking about. At least the wind wasn't all that bad. For the most part I could just cruise.

When I arrived in Biysk, I was struck by how different it was from Barnaul. Sure, Biysk is significantly smaller. That isn't it, though. Where Barnaul felt like a city on the go, Biysk feels like a place that is stuck in the past. There aren't the new buildings or bridges like Barnaul. Instead there are just crumbling factories and drab apartment blocks.

I met up with a guy named Dmitri I had met through Couchsurfing. He brought me up to his apartment in one of the big apartment blocks on the south side of town. He even gave me dinner and told me a little more about the town. Most of what he said was just as I expected. that the factories had closed and now the young people were moving away. Even Dmitiri was planning to move to St. Petersburg. But we had a fun evening talking about our various travels. There is a unique philosophy about life that most travelers seem to develop. It's different for everyone, but the similarities are shocking.



-Dravis

Date: July 26th, 2016
Distance: Rest day

I wish I had something cool to say that I did today. Instead, I spent the whole time taking care of logistics. E-mailing people, planning for Mongolia. The interesting stuff will be back tomorrow.



-Dravis

Date: July 25th, 2016
Distance: 225 kilometers
Song of the Day: Paia - Wild Ones

Woooooooooo! Longest day yet on this trip. 225 kilometers. Bam. The flat roads and long days this time of year do make getting the miles in easier. I wish I could tell you something interesting about the area I went through, but there was nothing. Wheat field after wheat field all day long. There weren't even that many towns. I don't feel bad about rushing through this part of the world.

When I arrived in Barnaul I met up with Michael, the young man I had seen in Pospelikha, and his girlfriend Maryana. They took me out to dinner and showed me around the city. Barnaul is probably not a place you have ever heard of but it's still major city in the region, modern and prosperous. Over 700,000 people make Barnaul their home, and it's older than the US. It is also built along the Ob, one of the great Russian rivers. Remember, this river is almost a kilometer wide at this point and it still has thousands of kilometers to flow before it empties into the Arctic ocean. Before planes, or cars, or trains, these rivers were the connections that bound Russia together. So cool to see.



-Dravis